In the south of the Kathmandu Valley, Bungamati is a historic village. It can be readily reached by bus (from Lagankel bus station), taxi, or even walking or cycling from Patan. You cross the Ring Road through Nakkhu and Baisepati and follow the primary highway. There are certainly more exciting back paths to take for those with more time on their hands to reach Bungamati, too. For instance, as part of a trail running path to Pharping, you could integrate a journey to Bungamati.
During the 2015 earthquake, Bungamati was severely damaged and its primary square is undergoing some reconstruction. This is of concern in itself, as intriguing efforts are being made with traditional techniques to finish reconstruction. Many of the primary temples, including the Rato Machhindranath temple, are in good form. This houses the red-painted status of the same-name god for six months of the year, if not in Patan’s Machhindranath Temple.
Bungamati has maintained quite a different impression, being a little further out. Large wells are still in use, adding to a medieval atmosphere the smell of woodsmoke from cooking fires. The locals are friendly and proud, looking forward to welcoming the village visitors. Tourism has not impacted the village in the same manner that it has been better known places like Bhaktapur. Most places to eat are located on the roads near the bus station and you can sample a straightforward but delicious Newari fare there.
Walk through the twisted and narrow roads, free of cars and mopeds. Pause to examine wooden doors and windows intricately sculpted, placed in traditional brick houses. Step into one of the many nearly hidden courtyards where you can admire a hidden temple or stupa. Smile and wave at passionate kids who want to practice their English with a’ hello, how are you doing?You’ll be surprised that just a few kilometers from the Ring Road lies such a quiet living museum.
Bungamati warrants a visit at any moment of year, but during the Mattya festival there is a particularly intriguing moment to visit. The precise date differs from year to year, but is generally around the end of September / August. This festival’s primary attraction begins from Bungamati’s primary square. Women donate their distinctive colorful clothes and lead a procession around Bungamati, leaving offers at each temple. The procession usually begins around 4 pm in the afternoon. It’s a colorful display of costumes and butterlamps, and mercifully less crowded around the valley than other celebrations.
